By: Ron Gurth, Bicycle Commuter and CIBA VP
Now you have yourself well dressed, protected from the elements, and ready to ride! But there are still a few things you should know to be prepared. Winter riding adds a couple of elements to your ride that are not faced in mild weather. One: Motor Vehicle Operators are not expecting you to be out there. Two: Your hearing is reduced a bit due to having your ears covered. Three: Morning and evening light is reduced (along with your visibility). Four: Road conditions may be compromised by wet (and maybe ICY) weather; road surfaces dry slower when the Sun is out less.
Five: Your bicycle will need extra TLC.
It is always advisable to dress in brightly colored clothes or wear reflective gear when riding, but it is even more important in the late fall and winter, especially for dawn and dusk (or dark) commutes. I like to use reflective leg bands. These keep your pants out of the drive-train (important to keep upright) and the up and down motion of the bright bands is Very Visible to drivers from behind and the sides. All but my 'go-faster' bike have built-in pedal reflectors and these are always effective. Wearing reflectors low (legs and on fenders) are most visible by drivers when just the low-beam headlights are on. Neon or reflective jackets and helmet covers don't show up unless the high-beams ('bright') are in use.
A couple of reasons to assure your bike is equipped with reflectors: It is the Law in most states, and no batteries are needed. This is not a condemnation of 'blinkies'; I love 'em. Just don't reject the humble reflector because you have the ultra-bright, 7 LED, 9 pattern, latest-greatest rear light! For my regular commute bike, I have the white reflectors that fit in the spokes too. Again, the motion (circular instead of the up and down of the pedals) really is an attention-getter.
Paying attention to Road Conditions is more critical in winter than other times of year. A wet road in warm weather can result in a dirty strip up the back of your jersey; in winter, there may well be Icy Spots that can wreak havoc with your ability to stay upright and away from the orthopedic surgeon. For recreational rides, 'discretion is the better part of valor', as has been said, and you can forgo the ride if the road surfaces are questionable. If, on the other hand, your bike is your transportation, then some awareness, some equipment, and some experience are helpful.
Awareness of the temperature and precipitation before and during your planned ride is a good start. Anticipate what you will encounter in the way of slick roads and traffic. Leaving 30 minutes earlier than usual for your ride to work can greatly reduce the car traffic you face. Think ahead when you may find a frozen patch or a drifted snow glaze, and know the road width, that is, know how much room you have to maneuver.
There is some debate whether a wider tire helps in winter. But let's put some perspective here. The narrowest tire I ride is 28 mm and often 32s. So for some reading this, that IS a wider tire. Yes, that is recommended. There are experienced year-round commuters that will insist on using 35 to 40 mm tires when the weather deteriorates. Many 'regular' road bikes won't accept anything wider than 28, so you should plan on running the widest tire that will work. Studded bicycle tires are available from a few manufacturers, and these are very effective when riding over snow and ice covered roads and MUPs (like the Monon). I do believe I will invest in a pair this year. Be aware that the size of these tires may not work on some frames.
Fenders, if your bike will accept them, are a truly wonderful addition when riding wet, sloppy roads. When set up correctly, your feet and body stay much cleaner and dryer, and your bike is cleaner too. No, fenders do not slow you down. Make sure you get them wide enough to fit the tires you are using. Most fenders can benefit from the addition of a 'mudflap'. These will improve the protection already afforded.
Get a saddle cover. It protects the saddle itself and keeps your bum happier when you are caught out in wet condition. If like me you ride Brooks or other leather saddles, it is paramount to keep the saddle from getting wet. Oh this is another use for the hotel shower caps!
It would take a separate article to even begin a reasoned discussion on head lights, so here let it suffice to say that you should have one. Whether you need a 'see' light or a 'be seen' light is totally subjective, as well as judgments as to battery life, size, weight, cost, etc. List your needs and your budget, and go to your LBS to discuss options. On a positive note, battery and LED technology continues to improve, and the cost for good lights continues to come down. A light that was $500 a few years ago is now half that.
Your bike will need cleaned and lubed more regularly when riding in winter. Use a good citrus cleaner to keep the finish fresh and the chain wiped down. Pick a good chain lubricant, too. Lots of choices, but just pick a good brand and use it. Wipe the slush and salt from your wheels, as the alloy can be degraded and the braking surfaces compromised. Keep the mechanical bits clean and drip a bit of lube on them to keep all working well.
Well, that's about all we can cover in this series on eliminating the 'season' for riding. With a bit of preparation and common sense, you can ride all year in safety and comfort. I hope there will be lots of discussion and opinions posted about these articles. And visit www.icebike.org. We learn by doing and from the experience of others. What you learn for yourself though is that riding is Fun, even when it's cold!
